So it doesn’t drain your iPad or iPhone’s battery, the JAM Plus only passes audio through the built-in headphone jack when the LED turns green.
The LED turns from blue to green when you:
- Playback audio from an application (like iTunes, Spotify, Pandora, YouTube, etc.). As soon as playback stops, the light turns blue again to save power.
- Have a recording application open (like Garageband, Audacity, Music Memos, etc.)
NOTE that the input Blend feature only works when the LED is green.
Here are some other reasons you may have trouble hearing audio through the headphone jack on your JAM+:
- Is the JAM’s LED blue? If so, this means that you don’t have recording software open. Launch a recording app and wait for the LED to turn green- then you’re ready to go.
- Is the JAM’s output muted or turned down too low? Confirm that the output volume is turned up enough on your Mac, PC, or iOS device by using the built-in computer or iOS device volume controls. If you’re using a Mac or PC, make sure that the audio output level is set for JAM + on your computer.
- If your recording app has input monitor buttons on its tracks, make sure you have monitoring turned on in your recording app.
Apple’s iPad Pro with the USB-C port marks a significant change that affects Apogee’s iOS-compatible devices.
First some background:
Apogee’s iOS compatible products have been officially certified for all past iPad/iPhone/iPod models (the ones with Lightning or 30-pin connectors) by Apple through their MFi Licensee program. However Apple does not offer MFi certification for the new USB-C iPad Pro models. With this change, some Apogee accessory features will be slightly different on the new iPad Pro USB-C models.
NOTE: This information is only regarding connection to iOS devices (iPads & iPhones), and does not affect anything regarding connection to a Mac or Windows computer.
All versions of MiC & JAM and Groove – COMPATIBLE
These units will send/receive audio and all functions can be controlled via the knobs/buttons on the hardware or the buttons and sliders on your iPad/iPhone/iPod.
Connect to the new iPad Pro USB-C with the Apple USB-C to USB Adapter together with the standard USB A cable that came in the box with the product
We also make a direct USB Micro to USB-C cable, which can be used with the MiC Plus, Jam Plus, and Groove:
One/Duet/Quartet – *PARTIALLY COMPATIBLE
Basic functions of our larger USB units work. This would be audio playback, some audio input, & output level control. (Note that ONE & Duet do not need the external power supply connected because the USB-C port provides bus power just like on a Mac!)
However these units are unable to connect to the Apogee Maestro iOS app, and thus are unable to access the Input Settings like Gain and Phantom Power or Output Routing, low-latency mixers, and Volume.
iPad does not get charged when a ONE, Duet, or Quartet are plugged in to AC power.
In some cases you may have to power down iPad, connect Duet or Quartet and power back up for them to be usable (ONE behaves differently, see below)
Quartet: offers the best partial compatibility
- All 4 inputs are usable without Maestro via the front-panel controls: https://apogeedigital.com/video/ask-apogee-don-explains-a-new-quartet-feature
- For other setting changes, have to connect to Mac or Lightning iPad/iPhone first. Then can connect to USB-C iPad & settings should carry over.
Duet: decent partial compatibility
- Able to adjust inputs gain with front panel knob.
- Other input & various settings must be changed with it connected to a Mac computer or Lightning iPad/iPhone first. Then you can connect to the USB-C iPad Pro and settings should carry over.
ONE: is the least compatible
- Inputs do not register in any app.
- Output control, playback, streaming from iTunes or other music apps works.
Please be aware this may not work in all cases or on all applications. There is lots of variability and things can change with each Apple iOS release or audio app update.
Note: The Anker USB-C to Lightning Audio Adapter is not a workaround
We would very much like to update these devices to support the new iPad Pro USB-C and are working with Apple to do so.
As soon as Apple can provide us a path of compatibility with this device we are happy to update our unit to support it.
Please look out for an update when we are able to make this available.
Sennheiser AMBEO Smart Headset – Mostly Compatible
The Sennheiser AMBEO Smart Headset can be converted from Lightning to USB-C using the Anker Lightning-to-USB-C adapter. Not only does this work in the USB-C iPad’s, but it also works on Macs (with limitations):
Note: The Maestro and AMBEO iOS apps will not be able to communicate with the Sennheiser microphones even withe the Anker adapter due to the lack of MFi through USB-C instead of Lightning. However generic recording does work according to our tests.
Other Sennheiser Lightning devices – Not Compatible – ClipMic Digital, MKE-2 Digital, MKE-4 Digital:
These Sennheiser mobile recording products do not work on the USB-C iPads even when connected through the Anker Lightning-to-USB-C adapter. (It also does not work on Macs with USB-C. Only the AMBEO works on Macs through the Anker adapter).
These can only work through iPads and iPhones equipped with a Lightning port.
When streaming audio through an interface connected to your Mac, there are many factors that can cause performance problem:
- audio artifacts such as pops or clicks, stutters, or dropouts as you play or record
- erroneous firmware messages, performance issues, or other strange behavior.
Use this guide to optimize your Mac computer to reduce the chances of this from happening, or as a starter if you have any issues.
Please keep in mind these steps are not required to use our product, but have solved problems for customers in the past. It is best to test these known fixes first and see if they relate to your issue.
Turn off Automatic Sleep Mode
In Apple Menu > System Preferences > Energy Saver set Computer Sleep to Never.
Make sure “Put hard disks to sleep when possible” is NOT checked.
(These settings may vary on different Mac Models)
This will mean that Sleep Mode does not come on automatically, but you can still put your computer to Sleep when you like, by going to Apple Menu > Sleep.
This is one of the most important steps to prevent problem behavior with an audio device because Sleep Mode works by suspending drivers in a hibernate state, rather than unloading them fully. When waking up the computer does not “enumerate” the drivers fresh as with a newly connected device, but just attempts to proceed as if nothing changed.
However your Audio Device will think it has been disconnected during Sleep, as the driver was no longer available. During Sleep the unit may shut off or go into a standalone mode depending on it’s model/design/features. When the computer wakes from Sleep the Audio Device doesn’t receive a good connection because the driver is not reloaded fresh as with a true unplug/replug, called “driver enumeration.”
Automatic Sleep can lead to situations where you get up for a quick break during your session and come back to glitchy audio, artifacts, no audio, a full disconnect, and other performance issues. Very short Sleep Mode settings, such as every 1 minute, can even create situations where you turn to do something in the studio like adjust your outboard mixer and before you are done the whole unit has been disconnected, or an erroneous firmware message has popped up.
If you must use Sleep Mode, then for best performance first turn off/unplug your interface and then choose Sleep from the Apple Menu. When you come back to work you can Wake the computer and then plug in/power the interface and get a freshly loaded driver.
Remove or Disable Unused Network Adapters
In Apple Menu > System Preferences > Network and make sure to remove any Network Adapters you are not currently using for a LAN or Internet Connection.
For example remove “Bluetooth PAN” “Thunderbolt Bridge” “Firewire” et al.
Having a port that shares a USB, Firewire or Thunderbolt Bus with your Audio Hardware here can limit its bandwidth.
When a certain Port Type, for example “BlueTooth PAN” is listed here, but not in use the computer will constantly “ping” that Port, looking for a connection to appear. This can create a lot of Network Traffic where it isn’t needed, such as on your USB Bus, since BlueTooth is an internally connected USB Device. This can lead to those constant pings knocking your audio device off the USB Bus, disconnecting it.
Turn off your Firewall
In Apple Menu > System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Firewall make sure Firewall is Off.
Networkingis one of the most common sources of audio problems on all computers, Mac and PC. This could be Network Activity on the computer, but also Firewalls for specific programs or computer blocking connections. In general it is best to disable the Firewall on any Audio Production computer.
If you do have important Firewall tasks that need to be done, like opening a Port Forward for your Video Games, it is best to do this on your Router instead, as that device is better equipped. It won’t cause so many audio interactions when done on a different device.
Remove Startup Items
In Apple Menu > System Preferences > Users & Groups > Admin Account > Login Items: remove any Startup items.
Startup Items can be control panels for other audio gear, like Digidesign loader, or programs like Spotify that go online and can interrupt other audio programs. Also things like Adobe Creative Cloud, or even Anti Virus Software will run in the background and slow down your computer.
In this screenshot you can see the computers has iTunes, Flux a color temperature program, and Dropbox all starting up when the computer loads. As iTunes and Dropbox can go online in the background, and Flux may affect graphics performance, these could all potentially affect audio or CPU performance negatively. It is best to remove them if having audio troubles.
There are no Startup Items by default on the Mac so you can remove all of them with no issue. If you are worried about removing some items, then take a screenshot of them so you can restore them at a later time: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201361
Repair Disk Permissions
In Applications > Utilities > Disk Utility: select Macintosh HD and click First Aid (Repair Disk Permissions on older Macs). Repeat this for any other Hard Drives you have connected.
Choose your best USB or Thunderbolt Port and cable
If you are using a USB Audio Interface (such as Duet), try all the USB ports on your computer. One may work better than another due to how the internal ports are hubbed.
Be sure you have tried another USB, Thunderbolt or Firewire Cable.
Turn off Analytics and Location Services
In System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Privacy Tab > Analytics (could say Diagnostics and Usage), un-check the boxes for Share Mac Analytics, Share with App Developers, and Share iCloud Analytics.
You may also want to disable Locations services found in this same Privacy Tab to further reduce background network traffic.
Turn off Sound Notifications for Apps
Turn off sound notifications for all your apps: In System Preferences > Notifications, select an app then un-check the box for “play sound for notifications. Repeat this for all apps in the left side-bar.
After these steps please RESTART the Computer
While you are Recording
- Check that any Virus Scanners or Backup software (i.e. Hightail or Carbonite) that run in the background are disabled. High background activity especially over the Network can cause glitches.
- Close any unnecessary applications while recording (i.e. Skype or Browsers you are not actively using.)
- Be sure that you record to a separate Hard Drive from your System/OS drive. More information: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/pro-audio/tips-and-solutions/save-your-music-the-basics-of-hard-drives-for-audio